Alongside the local ship "mala lađa" (small boat), there was a beautiful ship that we were as proud of as if it were our own—a passenger ship of the Yugoslav River Shipping that sailed between Belgrade and Senta. One day from Belgrade to Senta, and the next day from Senta to Belgrade. The ship would dock daily in Novi Bečej around 8 PM, whether it was heading from Belgrade to Senta or from Senta to Belgrade. We called this ship "velika lađa" (big boat). It was a beautiful ship with an even more beautiful name—"Princess Jelena," perhaps one of the most beautiful ships of the Yugoslav River Shipping.
We loved that ship very much and considered it our own. So, if sometimes, for reasons unknown to us, the ship "Zagreb" would appear instead of "Princess Jelena"—even though "Zagreb" was bigger than "Princess Jelena"—we felt a certain emptiness, even sadness, when we saw it approaching our dock from a distance.
Unlike the love the people of Novi Bečej had for "mala lađa," which we, the students who enjoyed its comfort, particularly loved, while others greeted it with just a sympathetic glance as they stood on the banks of the Tisa, both the young and old nurtured more than just sympathy for "velika lađa"—they had a love for it. "Princess Jelena" was greeted with love, just like islanders on the sea warmly welcome a ship that might touch their port once a week, bringing not only beloved relatives and guests but also essential supplies for life. As soon as we heard, from afar, the paddles of "velika lađa" hitting the waters of the Tisa, we eagerly awaited its arrival at the Novi Bečej dock, hoping to spot a dear friend or relative among the disembarking passengers.
In those beautiful, gentle, and pleasant summer evenings, when a heavenly silence reigned over the Tisa and its shores, and the night began to cover everything around us with its dark cloak, when nothing else could be heard except the distant barking of dogs and the even farther croaking of frogs from distant channels and ponds around Novi Bečej, and the church clocks (Novi Bečej has four large churches with clocks) chimed the night hours, the beloved sound of "velika lađa's" paddles would reach us from the dark distance. Although the ship was not yet in sight, the clatter of the paddles grew louder as the ship approached the Novi Bečej dock.
The sound of the paddles hitting the water, with its rhythmic echo in the deep silence, excited everyone who happened to be on the beautiful Tisa quay at that time. This sound could even be heard in the town center when the air pressure was low and the evening was calm, as only nature could provide. The sound filled us with a pleasant anticipation as the ship's lights began to appear. Soon, through the veil of darkness, we could distinguish the three colors of light—red, green, and clear—that illuminated the ship. To experience this blessed feeling, some merchants and craftsmen hurried to close their shops, even a minute before 8 PM, just to reach the quay in time to greet the arrival of "velika lađa" and to enhance its departure from the Novi Bečej dock.
Walkers who had wandered away from the quay, strolling along the embankment by the Tisa toward Vranjevo, made sure not to stray too far so they could return to the quay before the arrival of "Princess Jelena," to enjoy the pleasant moments of the ship's arrival and docking at the Novi Bečej dock. They hurried to see if among the disembarking passengers they would find a dear friend or acquaintance.
Everyone who happened to be on the quay at that time followed the ship with their eyes, gradually, step by step—walking closer to the dock, so that after the bell announced the ship's arrival, almost everyone was in front of the dock.
It was pleasant to hear the bell in front of the River Shipping Agency, which in a unique melodious way, in the blessed silence of the evening, announced the ship's arrival. The Agency's attendant, Uncle Sava Lekić, approached the bell, which hung on a metal console embedded in the concrete of the quay's fence, holding in his hand a short rope tied to the end of the clapper, striking one side of the bell. These strikes started with longer intervals, then shorter and shorter, until they merged into a continuous sound, ending again with two or three strikes with pauses. A small and modest, but in the silence of a beautiful summer night, very pleasant—almost artistic—echo of the bell.
Interestingly, this bell was never abused, day or night, although it hung freely within reach of every passerby. It was respected, and not even children ever thought to play with it by ringing it.
We paid special attention to how the head of the agency, dressed in a white summer naval uniform and a beautiful cap with a large and tastefully embroidered anchor and the River Shipping emblem on it, saluted the ship and its crew, standing at attention with his hand raised to the brim of his cap. We enjoyed watching how respectfully the agency head and the ship's captain greeted each other when entering the ship. The small ceremony, the salute, a few words exchanged, and the handshake were all so dignified and not overbearing that we all saw it as a conscientious performance of duty and a certain respect. These were the beauties and interesting aspects that "velika lađa" brought us. You might say it was very modest, but we expected nothing more, and perhaps that is why it was all so charming and close to us.
The ship didn't stay long, so all the walkers were ready to wait for its departure and to follow its gradual disappearance into the darkness of the summer night with longing eyes. With the ship's departure, each of us who had seen it off felt a gentle melancholy, just like when we say goodbye to dear guests. We returned to the quay with sadness that this beauty had vanished.
This happened every day. For the people of Novi Bečej, the most beautiful evening walk was to the dock to greet and see off the ship. Every evening, the sound of the bell echoed for a long time in the same way, announcing the ship's departure.
I don't know if "velika lađa" was greeted and seen off in the same way in other places along the Tisa, but in Novi Bečej, whose central part is located right on the riverbank along the quay, every arrival of "Princess Jelena" was a festive moment.
That’s why, to us in Novi Bečej, the ship "Princess Jelena" was the most beautiful ship that Yugoslav River Shipping had, or more precisely, perhaps among those we had the opportunity to see on the Tisa. The ship was steam-powered; it wasn't one of the largest passenger ships because, for example, the ship "Zagreb" was bigger, but our "Princess Jelena" was always exceptionally white and clean, as if no smoke billowed from its chimney, leaving no traces on it.
Comments